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Inland from the former administration centre of the British lies the twisting streets of the old city, dotted with temples, mosques and traditional businesses. The large Chinatown from Lebuh Pantai to Jalan Penang is centred on Lebuh Chulia, still the lively heart of Georgetown, but pockets of Indian and Malay areas remain within and around it.

Georgetown is a delight to wander around at any time of day. Set off in any direction and you're certain to find plenty of interest, whether it's the beautiful old Chinese shophouses, an early-morning vegetable market, a temple ceremony, the crowded shops or a late pasar malam (night market).

Jalan Penang and Jalan Campbell are the main shopping streets with modem air-conditioned shops, but it's along the more old fashioned streets like Lebuh Chulia or Rope Walk (Jalan Pintal Tali) that you'll find the unusual bargains - like a 'Beware of the Dog' sign that adds the warning in Malay ('Awas - Ada Anjing') and in Chinese characters. At the Lebuh Farquhar end of Jalan Penang there is a string of handicraft and antique shops.

Trishaws are the ideal way of getting around Georgetown, particularly at night when trishaw travel takes on an almost magical quality.

All the usual Chinese events are likely to be taking place at any time: a funeral procession with what looks like a run-down Dixieland jazz band leading the mourners, colourful parades at festival times and ancient grandmas pushing out their stalls to set up for a day's business. All around you'll hear those distinctively Chinese noises: the clatter of mahjong tiles from inside houses, the trilling of caged songbirds and everywhere loud arguments and conversations.

Nor can you miss Georgetown's other inhabitants. Tamils from the south of India cool boiled milk by nonchalantly hurling it through the air from one cup to another. Money changing is almost exclusively an Indian enterprise, and stocky Sikhs with antique-looking guns can be seen guarding many banks and jewellery shops. Little India, with its spice and sari shops, Indian temples and restaurants, is centred on the Sri Mariamman Temple on Lebuh Queen, between Lebuh Chulia and Lebuh Pasar.

Altogether, Georgetown is a place where there's always something of interest to see. For an excellent view over this whole sprawling scene, there's a viewing gallery on the 59th floor of the Komtar centre. Admission costs RM5, although this can be credited towards any of the (overpriced) souvenirs available in the huge shop on the same floor. Buy tickets from the counter of the Penang Tourist Guides Association on the 3rd floor.